Wednesday, November 9, 2016

home building schedule - excerpt from book, ,,,,,, Working for Subs

  • BE SURE TO CLICK    "OLDER POSTS"   - BOTTOM R. on this WEB PAGE TO SEE MORE POSTS.
  • The below is an excerpt from a book of 309 pages, 19 Chapters, 10 Appendices
  •                  (See Amazon for URL link below to preview book.)
The below table is an excerpt from a book, Working for Subs.  The table is expanded with a "Detailed Schedule" that discusses many more items in detail in the 19 chapters of the book.

A brief building schedule for construction of your home.

The following list of tasks is discussed in detail in the book "Working for Subs" by this writer / blogger.   See below for book preview.




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To preview the book that Geoff wrote       - cut and paste the following link to your browser:  https://www.createspace.com/Preview/1194783

      To order the 306 page book         -cut and paste the following link to your browser:
https://www.createspace.com/6118813
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Tuesday, October 11, 2016

DESIGN - excerpt from book, ,,,,,, Working for Subs

  • BE SURE TO CLICK    "OLDER POSTS"   - BOTTOM R. on this WEB PAGE TO SEE MORE POSTS.
  • The below is an excerpt from a book of 309 pages, 19 Chapters, 10 Appendices
  •                  (See Amazon for URL link below to preview book.)

 CHAPTER 3 Designing The Structure:



The design and the detailed estimate of construction are both discussed in this chapter, because they are integral to each other and should be evaluated together. They are both endeavors which are best undertaken prior to construction and then finalized after purchasing the lot. The estimate should continually be adjusted to reflect actual expenditures as the construction progresses.

A rough preliminary design and estimate based on square footage should be drafted prior to the lot search, as mentioned in Chapter 2. In order to select the lot suitable for your dream home you will need a vague idea of your final structure’s size and cost.

The two tasks of detailed designing and estimating discussed in this chapter should be put on hold until after closing on the lot purchase, and not during or prior to the closing process, because as any real estate professional will tell you many deals fall apart before the sale closing. If your specific lot acquisition fails, much of your detailed design and estimating work will be discarded, so keep these two efforts to a minimum. The home must be designed based upon the size and constraints of the land where it will sit and financial limits. Estimating should be simultaneously conducted during the final design period.

Try to keep in mind throughout the design and building process the reality that you should be building to suit the general market, not to suit yourself entirely. Many people stubbornly design unique personal features into their homes only to realize at the time of sale time that their notions of what is desirable are actually offensive to many potential buyers. Even if you are retired and plan to live in the home for the remainder of your years, you will do a disservice to your heirs by limiting the resale value if the design is too customized.
The major activity of this chapter concerns the design phase of home construction. Other tasks include a construction estimate.

Detailed Schedule – Part B*

  • Detailed estimate of construction costs (Appendix F.)
  • Drawing pages required by code enforcement for permit application: (e.g., per Shelby County, TN, 3 site, 5 floor, 2 roof, 2 joist, 1 elec, 1 plumbing, 1 slab section, stair detail, cornice detail, sections & other details.) (For Florida see List in the FL Bldg. Code.) Include 2 Duplicate plan sets for use in builder's office.
  • Additional Plan Sets needed for early QUOTES from subs & suppliers:
  1. Electrical,
  2. HVAC,
  3. Plumber,
  4. Framer, trusses,
  5. lumber. Request return of plans with proposals.
  6. Small scale (1/8” = 1’) for convenience and copying.
  7. Have FL Engineer stamp and produce structural drawings and details.
  8. Truss company quote (truss drawing details come with truss order) - Chap.8.
  9. Architectural Control Committee review in your subdivision / HOA.
  • Accurate quotes desired early (after lot purchase, design, & prior to grading) are:
  1. Grading & lot clearing quote
  2. Roof Trusses and Truss joists
  3. Appliances (to lock in price): Microwave, oven, Double or separate 2nd oven & Range /downdraft, trash compactor, dishwasher, disposer, sink
  4. Framing quote
  5. Stone countertops (cultured? quartz composite?)
  6. Wrought Iron: Gate, crawl space grilles, mailbox, balcony, stair rails
  7. HVAC
  8. Plumbing (see Chapter 7 for discussion)
  9. Electrical (see Chapter 10 for discussion)
  10. Slab labor quote
  11. Window & exterior Door quote.

*Detailed Schedule – Part B above, continues the sequence of construction tasks following Part A in Chapter 2. See Appendix B for the complete Detailed Schedule. Dimensions and amounts are based on codes in Tennessee, Colorado, and Florida, local requirements, and the Uniform Building Code that change frequently. Verify all in this book before acting on them.

General Design:

The more people who desire the attributes that your home exhibits, the larger your market will be when you sell the home. This book is most useful for a median-sized residence,i but the same principals can apply to any size structure. You may only need or want two bedrooms if you expect few visitors or want no children, but most U.S. markets expect an average sized home to have three or more bedrooms. Due to this expectation you should design the third bedroom and plan on using it for storage or an office if unwanted.

If you desire to build a bigger home (say over 3000 square feet) on your own, you will find the larger your structure becomes, the more involved the details, and more of your time and effort will be required. You may wrongly think that when you add rooms or space, it should be possible to produce a structure with the same elements but merely larger for the same effort. This is not the case. As the size of your home increases, so do the number and variety of elements and level of intricacy required.

The neighborhood in which you build a larger home will most likely be more upscale, dictating the use of granite countertops, you will need more colors of paint, your tile and floor finish selections must increase in number, appliances become more elegant in style with more features, more space conditioning systems will be needed, and so on. Each element of a larger home requires increasing attention to detail and customization, so an architect may be required, rather than a selection from stock building plan books.

The costs increase more in a larger home compared to a median-sized home, disproportionately to the increase in size, as materials are of higher quality, and subcontractors want a bigger piece of the seemingly wealthier pie. Subcontractors will charge more per square foot, because they perceive more profit, rightly or wrongly. Architectural services will consume a larger percentage of the final construction costs if used. Larger, more customized abodes invite more expensive finishes and materials. Developed lot costs per acre become higher. Structural members become more elaborate and costly due to longer spans and more intricate design requirements. All of these influences contribute to the greater cost per square foot of a larger home.

The home construction discussed in this book relates to the medium sized structure. The homebuilder will benefit from the information contained herein regardless of the volume of space he or she decides to construct. If a larger home is to be built the services of a design-build contractor and an architect, or independent construction manager who oversees construction may be useful as well. It will be exceedingly difficult for a newcomer to tackle construction of a home larger than 3000 square feet of conditioned area without assistance, due to the increasingly more complex requirements. Handling a home of less than 2500 square feet should be within the realm of possibilities of any diligent, organized, industrious person.


General Cost of Construction:

You could realistically expect to save about 12% or more of the cost of your self-built home after paying a Realtor and paying closing costs upon the eventual future sale of the residence (excluding any appreciation and financing costs). If you can make this amount on your investment in the first year in building, you have done better than most average years in the stock market23 after taxes with less risk. Any capital gains, including sweat equity, appreciation, and avoided builder markup, are tax-free on your personal home (lived in for two of the previous five years under current tax rules.) Investing in your own home is also less risky than the stock market, or in other investments, due to the fact that you can always live there in a down market, giving it intrinsic value (like shelter, clothing, & food) not found in most other investments.

The ultimate closing cost (Realtor’s commission upon sale and other items) should be taken into account when figuring your costs, regardless of the possibility that you could be living in the home until you pass from this earth, because your heirs will likely have to pay that eventually whether or not you do. Also, including closing costs of a future sale gives a true way to compare to other homes in the open market. The final market value of other homes will include the closing costs largely paid by their sellers, and so should your estimate of true value.
A 12% savings translates to a before-tax equivalent of about 16% profit in alternative investments for someone in the marginal 25% tax bracketii. That is a phenomenal return for a low risk asset, which provides one of the basic necessities for living, a shelter. The return on investment has grown even larger with appreciation in most years with the exception of the 2008 crash and the great depression of the 1930’s. Even though capital gains taxes are not normally paid on profits of a home of normal size, the phantom after tax comparison should be made when selected from among other investment vehicles (to avoid apples vs oranges scenario.)


A detailed cost estimate appears in Appendix F, but for conceptual purposes the following will suffice:

Cost Estimate -Brief:

The overall break down of values for self-construction becomes:
Lot cost -developed  ........................................................................................................... 20%
Materials .............................................................................................................................. 29
Labor /subcontracts /services .(some materials included – see Chap. 5) ......................28
Markup & OH avoided     (savings: profit, and sweat equity) ........................................ 10
Financing & OH costs     mon. 1 (or opportunity costs if self-financed) .......................... 6
Closing & contingencies 7 (upon eventual sale by you or heirs) ...................................... 7
Market value = .........................................................................................................          100 % **
*OH: overhead of avoided contractor.
**All percentages are approximations and will vary.


The closing costs used here assume a real estate commission of 6% and additional seller expenses. These closing costs are unknown until just prior to the settlement date and may include paying points on the buyer’s loan, etc. Moving costs to the new residence are ignored, presuming a move would be imminent regardless of where.

You may consider building a primary home, living in it for two years (two out of the last five years,) and selling to capture the capital gains tax avoidance allowed, however this is usually a loosing strategy. Real estate commissions, moving costs, and sales costs will consume any tax savings. Investing your money in stocksiii long term may have been a better financial strategy than owning a home for years, which you did not build, as in most markets housing has shown only about three percent appreciation annually. This rule of thumb may be incorrect in long-term appreciating housing markets especially near the coasts. In the 2007/08 credit crisis housing actually declined in value, and many owners experienced a capital loss when selling.

The Design Documents and Quotations:

The design documents consist of drawn plans, specifications, and any physical or digital depiction of the purposed structure. These can take the form of blue-line drawings (on light background) that replaced the old blueprints, which had blue background with white lines. Other mediums used for drawing originals are hand-drawn mylar or sepia. Hand drawn plans are rare these days, and have been replaced by electronically produced CADD drawings, stored as computer digital files. The architect or designer normally owns rights to the design and original design documents though some will sell this right.

You might purchase blue-line (or black plotted) paper drawings and written specifications from the architect or designer. In residential construction the specifications are usually inserted into the drawings as notes, and are rarely separate as a booklet like commercial jobs. Many plan books are available from libraries, bookstores, or online sales with design documents. Most of these sources will sell five or six sets of plans for a few hundred dollars. If you want more sets or the originals for reproduction purposes, often these are available also. Subcontractors will need quarter inch scale (1/4” = 1') plans for use in the field, since an electronic drawing on a computer screen on the job is impractical.

Determine from your local code enforcement office the number of plan sets they desire for permitting purposes. Add two sets to these for yourself, and at least four more for your subcontractors. The framer may need one set originally and another later, due to destruction on the job. If you want to get simultaneous quotations prior to beginning construction you will need as many sets of plans as the number of bids you desire. Be sure to ask for the return of the plans with the bid. If you are building in a subdivision with an architectural control committee, they will usually request two sets and will keep one. Figure all theses extra sets into your cost of design when deciding whether to use a local designer, a plan room, your own CADD system, or an architect to do the working drawings.

i The average size of a home for the purposes of this book is described as one with 2500 sqft of floor space. The NAHB has calculated the size based upon the year and location, 2503 sqft for the South in 2006. See the spreadsheet, available from the web page: http://www.nahb.org/fileUpload_details.aspx?contentID=80051 .

(continued in book)

 Estimating Costs:

The estimate in Appendix F is based upon a Microsoft Excel® spreadsheet composed by the author and was used for building in Tennessee in the mid 2000's. Other locations may vary drastically in labor and supply costs. Referring to this estimate will aid you in compiling a list of most materials and labor items used to build an average sized home as well as a representative percentage of that item’s cost to the total project cost. Actual dollar figures will not be accurate for your location or time, and are shown to merely give a relative notion of itemized costs. It is based upon a slab on grade foundation and a single story house.

This author has found it is best not to rely upon any single spreadsheet, book, or computer program to estimate the cost of construction. Instead, call each and every subcontractor and supplier you can for each project to get the latest cost. Go through every number produced and verify its derivation for every new project. This will take some time and for some items several hours of work. Each entry in the estimate sheet represents money, and is worth spending at least more time on than you might spend reviewing the bill for dinner at a restaurant - the way many builders treat their quotations.

Every job should be estimated by re-calculating from scratch every item that goes into building it. Materials' prices change, different subcontractors have different rates, and their quotations change. Building codes change, each structure has unique attributes, different locations affect costs in different ways, etc. Use a previous estimate like the one shown in Appendix F only as a guide to prevent overlooking items that should be included or only to give ballpark figures for comparison and checking your figures.

A spreadsheet similar to the one in Appendix F is a good way to approach estimating. Each item has three columns dedicated to materials and three columns to labor. All factors that enter into a calculation cannot be shown in a single cell of a spreadsheet, so we use separate spreadsheets (not shown) to calculate the various numbers shown in the cells. These separate calculations then automatically refer their result to the appropriate cell of the main spreadsheet.

For example, the fireplace cost may consist of a summary of components, including the firebox supplier’s quote, framing, hearth construction, a surround of tile or marble, a mantle constructed by the trim sub, separate chimney enclosure, etc. This detailed estimate item from another spreadsheet (not shown) is all reflected in one or two entries on the main spreadsheet of Appendix F. The units column may list the number of bricks or the square footage of floor for tile. No units are consistently the same type, as one might be a unit of volume (cu ft,) a quantity (count,) or an area (sq ft.) The unit cost column may just be a factor composed of a complex computation from another spreadsheet to yield the total cost shown. Each entry of Appendix F must be reviewed as though it were being produced for the first time in order to be accurate.

The last two columns of Appx. F (% cost per item and cost per heated square foot) are handy for checking your calculations. They should be in the same realm or magnitude as your figures. If your trim and door number, for example, is 10% of your total cost instead of the 2.3% shown, you either have very expensive finishes or your calculations need to be revisited.

Early in the design phase of construction you should get as many quotations from suppliers and subcontractors as you can in order to avoid surprises later. Often time is not available for this in great detail. However, several quotations shown are needed at this early stage, due to their long lead times (from order to delivery,) and to lock in some significant prices prior to commencement. Some subs are booked for weeks in advance, and you will need their quotes at an early stage to guarantee their contract commitment. A list of these critically early items is shown earlier in this chapter in the Detailed Building Schedule Part B. 

(continued in book)

ii 22.7% = 17% / (1 – 25%).

iii Per the Univ. of Michigan 11.83% average annual return for a 30-year period in stocks from 1963 to 1993.

Tuesday, October 4, 2016

Typical Warrany Policy from builders - what's not covered and what is

Have you ever wondered if you new home warranty covers everything in your purchase by law? You may be surprised to learn that it does not.

  The book Working for Subs covers that subject in several chapters and in Appendix H shown below:

[below are excerpts from the book by this author:]

 Warranty Companies for the self-built home:

If you want to obtain a structural warranty for your foundation, roof, and walls there are several providers available, among these are.... [continued in book] ...

Some warranty companies will guarantee the foundation against settling for ten years. Others will give multi-year guarantees on mechanical, electrical, and other specific portions of the residence. You will have to consult with each of them in order to make a decision, and it would be prudent to do this during the planning stage before the design. Refer to Chapter 19 for more information about warranties.

Excerpt from Chap. 19:

 Completion and Warranty:

There is always something else you can do to a house. You will never finish working on one even after the day of substantial completion onward. Occasionally a buyer will have no final punch list, and the builder never hears from them during the warranty period. Others become obsessed with minute details, and give their builder extensive punch lists with many items not covered by warranties, like paint touch-ups or squeaky floors, waiting until the end of a year's period. The meticulous new homeowners perhaps are over reacting for fear of not being able to maintain the multiplicity of elements of construction that they do not understand without assistance from the builder after the warranty expires. We usually handled their non-warranty items without protesting as long as they were not too costly or too numerous.


If a contractor has built a house according to industry standards and current codes, using approved materials and methods, he is not held responsible for the thousands of items that cannot be foreseen, like nail pops in the drywall, or loosening fasteners in the subfloor that squeak. These things will occur on any project. The builder holds a final walk-through with the buyer in order to establish a point in time where these things become the buyer's responsibility and not the builder's. It is the responsibility of the builder to educate the homeowner as to the difference between these non-warrantied occurrences and those that are covered. Most contractors will, however, repair a lot of nuisance imperfections in the interest of good will, regardless of whether covered by warranty.

Excerpt from Appx. H:
WARRANTY POLICY & PROCEDURES
[The Builder - insert name] thanks you for purchasing one of our homes. All the contractors responsible for building your new home are professionals with a high degree of skill in their trade. Even though subcontractors may be very thorough, in a project with hundreds of thousands of pieces such as your home there will always be a few things which could have been done differently or more efficiently and some things which may not work properly at first.
There always are some items that require adjusting or repairing or redoing in any new house: Doors or windows may stick, squeak, or drag; water pipes could leak, especially hot water when expanding under first usage; small roof leaks may become visible under different rain and wind conditions. Many of these things are repairable during your warranty period (see HBW/BBHWA booklet).
[The Builder] wants you to enjoy and take pride in your new home. A great deal of attention to detail has gone into its construction. For these reasons we ask that our buyers work with us throughout the warranty period that begins upon the closing sale of the home.
We ask that new buyers keep a written list of items that are warranty items and a separate list of items that are not (paint chips, drywall dings, other cosmetic items, etc.). Except for emergency items, following closing each buyer should send the written list to our warranty contact, listed below. We will then make an appointment to come and assess the required work. A minimum charge may be due in advance for repair items which are not warranty related with an additional final charge when finished. Non-warranty work is billed hourly plus materials and a reasonable markup for overhead, administration, and profit.
It may be necessary to arrange for one of our subcontractors to handle particular items, in which case an appointment will be made which is convenient to the buyer and the subcontractor. We may request that each buyer and subcontractor communicate and make their own appointments to avoid confusion and repeated calling back and forth by using us as an intermediate. We do need to know when items have or have not been accomplished and ask the buy to notify our warranty contact about this.
Some repairs may take several trips, as patches or paint may need several coats or the source of the problem may not be readily obvious, such as roof leaks. We ask that buyers be patient and allow the repair men to enter their homes and let them know directly if you are not satisfied with their work before they leave the job as many subcontractors are difficult to reach and have odd schedules. It may be some time before a subcontractor will return to redo a job or return when not admitted to the home.
We ask that the homeowner be patient with the repair process and allow an extra amount of time for our busy subcontractor's and agents to arrange their schedules to accommodate your home. They serve many people with similar problems and must fit them in their time frames in an orderly manner. Some problems may require detective work on the part of the homeowner, as only the person living in the home can be there for example at odd hours or during rainstorms when the symptoms may occur. Write down times, dates, weather, conditions, and other observations that may give clues as to the cause of problems. If there is a water or gas leak turn off the main shut off valve if the pipe cannot otherwise be isolated. If there is an electrical problem it may be necessary for the homeowner to trip the main breaker.
The homeowner should handle EMERGENCIES promptly by first calling our warranty contact or us to request instructions on how to handle the problem and prevent further damage and to arrange for any needed repairs. Please leave a message if no one is immediately available, and the problem may worsen and cause further damage if left unrepaired. Next the homeowner should call the appropriate subcontractors from the list received at closing to come as soon as possible to control the emergency and make repairs. The homeowner should make reasonable emergency repairs only to the extent required to prevent further damage until we can be contacted. Only emergency reports will be accepted by telephone; all other reports must be in writing. Turn off water shut off main valve in case of leak and turn off main electrical breaker in panel in case of electrical problem or gas main shut off at meter if gas problem. These were demonstrated at the pre-closing walk-through inspection, and if you do not know how to control these, contact us right away before an urgent problem arises.
It is up to the homeowner to inform us of problems in a timely manner so that we may arrange a repair schedule agreeable to both himself/herself and the responsible subcontractor. If no written list is received, no work can be done. It is also the homeowner's responsibility to inform us whether the repairs were successful or unsuccessful after the repairman leaves. If we do not hear from the homeowner we must assume that they are satisfied with the repairs made. In many cases we do not know the schedule arranged between subcontractors and homeowners or whether they have agreed that the work is complete, it is therefore necessary for the homeowner to let us know when the work is completed.
After the initial written warranty repair list (if any) has been completed, the homeowner should begin keeping another warranty repair list of items that occur after the first list has been serviced. This next list should be mailed to our warranty contact before six months following closing and will be handled promptly. At that time a final warranty repair list (if any) should be kept until two weeks prior to the end of the warranty period (see New Home Warranty for duration) at which time this list should be mailed to our warranty contact. It will be handled similarly to any previous lists.
If there is a question as to what is covered under the New Home Warranty and what is not the warranty document itself should be consulted. This policy and procedure guide is merely a guideline and does not replace the New Home Warranty document received at closing. The homeowner is urged to communicate with the builder anytime there is something in question. [The Builder] is always interested in having satisfied customers and wants people to be satisfied with their new home. We are very conscientious about our work and will do everything reasonably possible to solve a problem with the cooperation of the homeowner. It is never appropriate to become angry or irritated over a problem. We are eager to discuss any detail of the warranty as long as the homeowner is willing to communicate.
[The Builder] looks forward to assisting you throughout the warranty period and wishes you a carefree and happy home.

Builder's warranty contact: --------------------------------------------------------
[Agent & telephone/cell phone number]
See: New Home Warranty and closing documents for mailing and other contact information.
________________________________

date: [month date, year]

Wednesday, September 28, 2016

Introduction [from the book Working For Subs]

[below is a excerpt from a book by this author:]

 Introduction:

“Unless the LORD build the house, they labor in vain who build.” – Psalm127 i


Late one evening after having been on the job site for about two hours, this builder was leveling windows, because the framer did not show, and the bricklayer was scheduled to arrive the following day. A stranger dropped by to observe and asked, “Are you the framer,” probably confused by the non work-like attire. After replying, “No, I’m the builder,” The stranger followed quickly with, “Oh, so you are working for subs?” I paused momentarily before realizing what he had meant and replied, “I guess you are right.”

We both chuckled with the understanding that most homebuilders are at the mercy of subcontractors (subs) rather than the reverse that would be expected of your hires in most industries. The quality of you subs determines the outcome of your construction project. The passerby’s comment has stuck with me ever since, and has become the title of this book. If a self-homebuilder can learn how to manage his subcontractors, he has conquered one of the most vexing problems facing this specialty endeavor of contracting.

When an individual undertakes the chore of constructing his own shelter, many times he is the only one who will be available to repair the work that his subcontractors have botched or inadvertently omitted from their scope of work. The reader may well wonder why the main contractor has to stoop to the level of completing work which he has paid someone else to perform? If you want to finish your job on time and under budget, your level of commitment will be tested many times before securing the final inspection. Often you may pray that “the Lord would build the house.”

You will overlook ordering certain materials, like flashing for the roofer or extra studs for the framer. The trim carpenter will be due on the job, and you may have overlooked having the slab swept out the day before. The inspector will be arriving within an hour, and the framer did not anchor the plates at every location. If you want your job to proceed expeditiously to the next phase, whom else will you get to do these minor tasks properly at the last minute but yourself? Otherwise, your next arriving subcontractor may find the job not ready, and move on to his backup contract for the next two weeks, putting your job off for that amount of time.

This book will guide the self-homebuilder with each step (Appx. B) to be taken in the order required, and possible pitfalls he /she may encounter along the path to self-building or hiring a contractor to build his /her own home. The real truth about building your home will be revealed, which you won’t read in other books of this type, so that you can make a rational decision before adopting a plan to begin construction. Many suggestions and construction techniques adopted in this book may appear unconventional to the straight-laced new builder. Once you enter the world of errant subcontractors and unexpected obstacles that homebuilding is, the realization that your attempts to control every detail in a professional orderly manner could lead to overwhelming frustration. You must be flexible and bend to accept many deviations.

Your first impression of this writing may be that it appears like a lot of reading. I suggest this reading is minor compared to the detail and education you will encounter in homebuilding. Using this book as a guide to understanding, and hiring a general contractor may be your best course if the reading seems intimidating.


The New Home Owner's Required Experience:

The following pages will introduce you to the reality of attempting to build a home. Can anyone build a house? The fast answer for most people is, not without advice and help. Not everyone possesses the organization or diligence to accomplish the task. The readers of this book will, however, be given the facts upon which to base their self-assessment as to whether they should attempt their own construction. The anecdotes and experiences of the author will give you insight into to your own attitude, personality, and temperament in regard to undertaking such a project. What you would never attempt yourself can be accomplished by a multitude of professionals offering services, including procurement, legal advice, design, land acquisition, logistics, accounting, bookkeeping, skilled labor, etc.

If you want to save thousands of dollars on your next home, have a rewarding, self-fulfilling experience, live in a comfortable and secure home that you built, and gain knowledge which will help you the rest of your life, then you are a candidate for building your own home. The overall project may seem daunting at first thought, but when performed a step at a time each phase is basically simple and can easily be accomplished by a persistent individual. This method is illustrated sequentially in Working for Subs, available by ebook (Kindle format) or in print at Amazon.com.

This book attempts to educate the reader with its orderly method of explanation of the construction for your home. Most do-it-yourself, build your own home books give overall information on each aspect of the building process, but Working for Subs will take you through each task in the construction effort in logical order. Other building books will not give you an organized simplified method of the order of tasks to completion, but this book does. You will learn where to find subcontractors and how to negotiate with them.

Even if you do decided to undertake your own building, you may want to hire a general contractor as a consultant on an hourly basis. Someone, who has many years of experience with local conditions and requirements and has managed subs, could prove to be invaluable to a neophyte in the trade. A mentor (general contractor) of this sort might be found from the local homebuilders’ association, or by asking other builders and subcontractors. He could be a retired contractor or even a small builder who only builds two to four houses per year and has the time to offer you advice. An experienced builder can save you a lot of wasted cost and misplaced effort.

Inside this writing is given to you a working knowledge of the business, directing you to ask the right questions at the appropriate time of or whom you hire. You will still have to perform the large majority of planning, estimating, ordering, scheduling, hiring, etc., regardless of whom you consult for advice. Our errors are discussed, so you can avoid similar mistakes without having to experience them.

Building your own domicile is not an easy undertaking, but if you are organized and persevere, by attempting one appropriate task before another, it can be accomplished. The whole experience will appear as nothing more than a walk along a challenging but very rewarding path to a Shangri-la of your own making.


The Step-By-Step Journey

You will begin to understand that even though building your home is a complex multidisciplined undertaking each aspect is still basically simple. This is, because when broken down a task at a time, one before the other, in the order that each activity must be performed, the building of your home becomes an easily understandable excursion. Just as stated by Chinese philosopher Lao Tzu,ii “A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step,” the homebuilding journey begins with a single step and continues in a task-by-task order. Each of these steps can be easily understood and accomplished when viewed individually instead of overwhelmingly as a whole.

The chapter titles in this book are named to delineate the major milestones of constructing your home, but each chapter also contains multiple sub-milestones that are important. Chapter 2 for example is entitled Finding and Purchasing The Lot, however structuring a form of doing business (e.g. LLC), discussed later in chapter 2, can be critical as well. Each chapter’s title refers to the primary task discussed therein but many other tasks are also contained. See the Detailed Schedules of tasks in Appendix B and in most chapters, rather than the title, for a more thorough list of the content of that chapter.

Other books on the market may offer to lead you on a step-by-step road to construct your house, but you may discover their information disorganized, too brief, or misleading. Many of the elaborate details, concocted to explain the process are just not necessary for the self-contractor and confuse the path toward final completion. This writing attempts to give something unique, which other build-it-yourself books do not. Others give a rough look at each part of the building process, but none give a day-by-day, one-by-one, step-by-step flow of the construction effort with typical problems encountered along the path, like this book.

Working for Subs does not attempt to be a technical manual, micro-managing every structural and aesthetic aspect of construction, nor does it contain elaborate diagrams of components, code references, or tables of materials and their qualities even though there are many useful tables, lists, and schedules included. Other sources and references are available that provide detailed drawings and building code explanations. It is not necessary to know how to perform every activity intricately in order to contract your home. Professionals you hire will handle the varied chores. This book instead will give the reader a step-by-step orderly approach to contract their own medium-sized home putting one task before another in a logical fashion – a contracting cookbook of sorts.

This method of explanation lends itself well to building a residence, since it is truly a process where particular tasks must be performed in progressive order. You could not put on the roof before building the walls or the walls prior to the foundation. Even though there are certain tasks, which may be accomplished simultaneously, the over all majority of duties will be like Lao Tzu’s journey, a critical path of individual steps one before other.

Though this book is devoted to the self-homebuilder, it is also constructive to inform those who want a guide for understanding the various building procedures. You may want to use the book in order to understand the building process of your general contractor, and to communicate on a more informed basis. This writing has employed a colloquial manner of expression in order to incorporate the familiar language of the building industry, and to prepare the reader/builder for understanding the various job-related terms and jargon he will encounter. Even though this book is devoted to the self-homebuilder, it is constructive to inform those who also wish to use it as a guide for observing a general contractor they might hire. You may want to use the book in order to understand the building process your general is following and to communicate in the job-site lingo. (continued in book)


i The New American Bible - http://www.usccb.org/nab/bible/


ii Lao-tzu, The Way of Lao-tzu, Chinese philosopher (604 BC - 531 BC) http://www.quotationspage.com/quote/24004.html#note


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Tuesday, September 20, 2016

Siting - excerpt from book, ,,,,,, Working for Subs


 CHAPTER 4 Siting The Home:

Once you have purchased the lot, completed your design, and received quotations for the long lead time (time between ordering and receipt) items and subcontractors it is time to apply for permits. After receiving your building and storm water permits you should obtain builder’s risk and other insurance (Chap. 2) prior to allowing anyone to set foot on the lot.

The major activities of this chapter are securing the building permit, other paperwork necessary to begin construction, as well as lot clearing and grading. More fees must be paid, and notices must be posted and made, depending upon your state and local laws and codes.

Detailed Schedule –Part C*

  • File a Notice of Intent (FL) & SWPPP34 (fax or email address __________________) (continued in book)
  • Fill out “EPL” card (Energy Performance Level) for permit -Florida Building Code, Chap. 13, Energy Code.
  • Notice of Commencement (Florida) –owner shall record w/ clerk before(continued in book)
  • Must pay Water Tap fee $_______ & Sewer tap fee $_______ (unless septic field) before can get permit. Get Lot & Block no.(continued in book)
  • Building Permit application with state ENERGY CODE calculations. Must include stair details on plans. Date permit received_________; PERMIT NO. ____________; (in TN Need: Address Certificate, 2 site plans & 1 floor plan)
  • FL Bldg Code required INSPECTIONS list: Foundation, Framing, Sheathing, (continued in book)
  • Inspections called by others: Electrical, Plumbing, Mechanical, and Gas (these subs call their own inspections for: underground, Roughin, & Final).
  • Builder’s Risk Insurance: (Include sweat equity in estimated cost of construction.)
  • BBHWA6 “Construction Indication” form before breaking ground. (continued in book)
  • FLORIDA POSTINGS on SITE: (Ch.1 FL Bldg. Code) (continued in book)
  • Notify power company: Order temporary power pedestal before slab work.
  • Plumber to give septic elevation (building sewer invert elev.) for fill and grading.
  • (continued in book)
  • Lot clearing tree removal (Add fill dirt to raise elevation to above septic field), grade lot, roughin septic field.
*Detailed Schedule – Part C in this chapter continues the sequence of construction tasks following Part B in Chapter 3. See Appendix B for the complete Detailed Schedule. Dimensions and amounts are based on codes in Tennessee, Colorado, and Florida, local requirements, and the Uniform Building Code that change frequently. Verify all in this book before acting on them.

Building Permit:

Many municipalities base the cost of the building permit upon the total covered square footage of the structure, including garages, porches, and other areas under roof. The permit cost difference from state to state can be significant.

So called impact fees (imposed for the supposed impact upon public utilities) may have already been paid by the developer of your property. Impact fees allow the countys to gain extra tax revenues under the guise of having to provide more services, plant and equipment for roads, power, gas, and water to your grand estate. If the developer did not pay this tax, or if you are the developer, you may be required to pay the impact fees. Verify this before purchasing your lot. The NAHB in its Impact Fee Handbooki attributes 4% of the price of an average single-family home in 2008 to impact, permit, and hookup fees alone. That's $8,000 for a home costing $200,000, going to plant and equipment that is supposedly covered by other local taxes.

This places an undue burden on the new homebuyer that theoretically benefits the community, and contributes to making new homes more expensive than existing. Many communities faced with declining housing during the downturn of 2008, suspended these excessive impact fees when faced with the reality of declining property taxes due to reduction in building. Reducing taxes produces greater revenue through more growth.


Dealing with Code enforcement (Building Dept):

Building departments began as agencies protecting the public safety, and evolved to elaborate bureaucracies with enormous bodies of codes and regulations dealing with issues not limited to safety. This is due to the natural tendency of unrestrained government to grow, as there is no end to the desire to regulate, nor its rationalized justification. Building quality control used to be just a local list of requirements, then expanded to statewide mandates. Now, the new International Building Code is emerging that, as its name implies, will give central control of building to a universal committee (ICCii). In Texas and California some towns have gone beyond protecting the public safety and are requiring design elements like fireplaces, windows in garage doors, brick on all exterior walls, and are specifying minimum living areas - a clear government overreach.

“In 1991, a commission of the U.S. Department of Housing and Urban Development organized by then-Secretary Jack Kemp reported that one of the most serious barriers to affordable housing was the existence of costly and counterproductive government policies…. The report estimated that [government] regulations increased the average price of housing by between 20 percent and 35 percent,” according to the John Locke Foundationiii. That was years ago, and regulations have increased exponentially since. That means that more than one-third of your home cost is due to government regulations, many of which are indirectly related. “The total tax and fees on the American dream in Florida is as high as 34 percent in some jurisdictions – making Florida the state with the second highest fees on new home constructioniv,” the president of the FHBA (Florida Homebuilder's Association, www.fhba.com) stated in 2007. These expenses do not even include the hidden costs due to subsidies for low-income housing, interest rate manipulation, and other false economies created by government’s artificial propping-up of the housing market.

Not only does your government make operating a building business increasingly challenging due to excessive regulation of the residential construction industry, but the easy money attitude since the creation of Freddie Mac and Fannie Mae resulted in the so called Great Recession of 2008, and undermined the livelihood of many subcontractors, homeowners, and small builders31. Under presidents Bill Clinton in 2000, and George Bush in 2007, required lending quotas to unqualified buyers to be lowered. Sen. Barney Frank imposed affordable housing requirements on the two government sponsored enterprises, stating, I want to roll the dice a little bit more in this situation toward government subsidized housing. Down payment barriers were reduced to as low as 3% for conventional loans from the previously safe level of 20% for an FHA loan, and low interest rates were encouraged by the Federal Reserve’s actions. These lost jobs statistics will not be found in the unemployment rolls, since the loss of work largely affects independent contractors and small business owners, not employees who claim unemployment compensation from the government. Many construction industry operatives never reentered the businesses devastated by their rulers. The housing market usually leads the US into and out of recessions, but our misguided leaders are seemingly unaware of this.

The historically large housing downturn that began to haunt the independent builder or subcontractor in 2007, appeared to have no end in sight for a number of years. The survival mentality and resilience of our enterprising citizens who were working at or below cost to stay afloat is commendable in spite of all the regulatory burdens placed upon them in trying times by federal and local governments.
The cause of the world-widev collapse in housing and thus the financial sector that began in 2007, is multifaceted and examined in detail by The Financial Crisis Inquiry Commission in its reportvi, in the references at the end of this book, but is not conclusive. There are dissenting opinionsvii by some of the members of this commission of the appointed four Republicans and six Democrats, which was established by Congress in May 2009, under the Fraud Enforcement and Recovery Act, signed by President Barrack Obama. In its Conclusions the commission succinctly states, …it was the collapse of the housing bubblefueled by low interest rates, easy and available credit, scant regulation, and toxic mortgagesthat was the spark that ignited a string of events, which led to a full-blown crisis in the fall of 2008. Regardless, in its detailed explanations the commission tends to downplay the role of the federal government in actively encouraging the reckless lending that precipitated the debacle.31

The same historical mistakes are being repeated today.
All of this macro economic influence seems to have little effect on your dealings with your local building department. The everyday, mundane tasks of dealing with authorities continues.

(this discussion continued in book).
...

Storm Water:

The developer of a subdivision must comply with the Clean Water Act (CWA) passed by Congress, which entails preventing pollutants (including sediment) from running off the land with storm water. In order to comply land owners must have a storm water pollution prevention plan (SWPPP)i, implemented by installing erosion control fencing and hay bales, sweeping streets after a heavy rain, creating berms and retention areas to prevent runoff, etc. The requirements vary from state to state.

You should request a copy of the SWPPP from the developer of your subdivision before purchasing a lot. In many locales you will be allowed to use his master plan for the subdivision, which will avoid many thousands of dollars in costs to develop. A National Pollutant Discharge Elimination System (NPDES) permitii to the developer covers the requirements of the plan. You may be allowed to file a Notice of Intent or other document to agree that you will comply with the master SWPPP of the developer under his NPDES permit. Once your project is completed you must also notify the authorities that you wish to terminate the permit coverage. Be sure to read the extensive literature from the EPA in the Endnote references and Appx. A at the end of this book for the full requirements as well as the literature from your state.

Issues cannot be avoided in building, they will arise. One home we built was on a steep rise above a neighbor’s rear yard with a swimming pool. The owner’s pool contractor called to ask if he could dump the dirt from the pool excavation on our lot. We were glad to allow it, since we would probably need fill dirt later anyway. Before beginning grading of our lot, rain runoff carried a slight bit of sediment into that new pool from the dirt of the same neighbor’s excavation, and turned the water a yellowish color.

At the neighbor’s request we erected silt fencing and barriers, but the erosion continued until sod was eventually planted months later. Her pool deck was not properly sloped away from the pool and backed up to our rear yard with no swale to divert water away, acting as a perfect funnel for the runoff into the pool. This was before the state was heavily applying the rules covering storm water from small individual construction sites. We had done a favor in allowing the neighbor's pool excavator to deposit dirt on our lot, but we were considered responsible for that dirt when it washed back to that lot, an almost impossible situation to correct. A couple of years later our job would have been shut down or some expensive elaborate system would have been required to be devised to control the small flow. So, be aware of your surrounding water flow paths as well as your own.

Had the neighbor’s pool deck been properly sloped with a swale to carry water around it, and had we not allowed their contractor to dump loose dirt on our lot, the problem would have been avoided. Thankfully, we finished the job ahead of schedule and (continued in book).
CLICK "older posts" ON RIGHT AT BASE OF THIS PAGE TO READ MORE:

i Environmental Protection Agency of the United States. National Pollution Discharge Elimination System - Storm Water Pollution Prevention Plan. [article from the internet]. [cited 2013 May 22]. Available from: cfpub.epa.gov/npdes/stormwater/cgp.cfm

ii http://www.cicacenter.org/swppp.html
also: www.epa.gov/npdes/pubs/sw_swppp_guide.pdf
.......
i National Association of Homebuilders. Impact Fee Handbook. By Development Planning and Financing Group 2008 version. [ebook from the internet]. [cited 2013 May 23]. Available from: www.nahb.org/fileUpload_details.aspx?contentID=184609&fromGSA=1

ii International Code Council, Inc., 5023 Leesburg Pike, Ste. 600, Falls Church, Virginia 22041.

iii http://www.johnlocke.org/agenda2006/housing.html

iv FHB Action News (June 18, 2007) President’s Message By John Wiseman.

v http://fcic-static.law.stanford.edu/cdn_media/fcic-reports/fcic_final_report_hennessey_holtz-eakin_thomas_dissent.pdf

vi http://fcic.law.stanford.edu/report/


vii http://fcic-static.law.stanford.edu/cdn_media/fcic-reports/fcic_final_report_wallison_dissent.pdf


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Tuesday, September 13, 2016

How to construct a house blog - OSHA requirements Appx G of book

Appendix G – OSHA Requirements:

This Appendix highlights a few significant OSHA issues in an attempt to simplify another overwhelming collection of government regulations. The following paragraph is excerpted from the Occupational Safety and Health Administration website:


Personal protective equipment, commonly referred to as "PPE", is equipment worn to minimize exposure to serious workplace injuries and illnesses. These injuries and illnesses may result from contact with chemical, radiological, physical, electrical, mechanical, or other workplace hazards. Personal protective equipment may include items such as gloves, safety glasses and shoes, earplugs or muffs, hard hats, respirators, or coveralls, vests and full body suits.


Other equipment for the job site includes a fire extinguisher, respirators, harnesses, tethers, steel-toed shoes, and gloves among the various requirements. Requirements can be found from the official web page / URL : https://www.osha.gov/SLTC/personalprotectiveequipment/

THE FATAL FOUR


Of the very large complex body of OSHA rules and regulations some critical issues can be identified that OSHA considers more important. The so-called “fatal four” accidents are targeted by inspectors and should be prepared for in advance. These are according to the government web site https://www.osha.gov/oshstats/commonstats.html :

  • Falls — 294 out of 796 total deaths in construction in CY 2013 (36.9%)
  • Struck by Object — 82 (10.3%)
  • Electrocutions — 71 (8.9%)
  • Caught-in/between — 21 (2.6%)
Further the web page states:
Out of 3,929* worker fatalities in private industry in calendar year 2013, 796 or 20.3% were in construction―that is, one in five worker deaths last year were in construction. The leading causes of worker deaths on construction sites were falls, followed by struck by object, electrocution, and caught-in/between. These "Fatal Four" were responsible for more than half (58.7%) the construction worker deaths in 2013*, BLS reports. Eliminating the Fatal Four would save 468 workers' lives in America every year.
It would be wise for any contractor at a minimum to prepare their job site for these four targets by inspectors.

TYPICAL MSDS, MATERIAL SAFETY DATA SHEET:


Builders and contractors should have a full three ring binder of MSDS's on site in the job box for every hazardous chemical, material, or substance on their project. A typical residential collection of 8-1/2” x 11” MSDS papers will be over three inches thick.
Most suppliers will provide Material Safety Data Sheets for products that they provide. Many are available on the internet. One example is the GAF company's MSDS for duct sealant available online from:
http://www.gaf.com/Warranties_Technical_Documents/MSDS_Documents/Air_Duct_Sealant_MSDS.pdf

TYPICAL JOB SITE TOOLBOX TALK RECORD:


The following is a condensed form to be filled in at least weekly on the job, documenting that a training session with workers took place regularly:

TRAINING RECORD
for (insert company name)
(job location)
Topic Discussed:
Date:

  1. (employee signature)
  2. (signature)
  3. (signature)
  4. ....

Training conducted by ____________________________________ (sign)

TYPICAL OSHA JOB INSPECTION CHECKLIST:


Job Location: ______________________ Date: _____________ Inspector: ______________________
TYPE
ITEM
READY
NOT
REMARKS
Postings
OSHA bulletin board




Emergency phone numbers




MSDS available



Miscellany
Access roads & drives




First Aide Kits




Parking & site level




Ditches / Trenches protection




Portable toilets



Equipmnt
Scaffolding ready




Guardrails, ladders, catwalks




No exposed hazzards - rebar




Job box complete




Crane outriggers, hook clip




Heater locations



Workers
Hard hats, goggles




respirators




Harnesses, teathers roofing




attaire



Electrical
GFIC in place




Cords condition



Other















This form is a suggested list of items to verify in preparation for a surprise OSHA inspection, and as a job record, showing continuous compliance.

TYPICAL JOBSITE BULLETIN BOARD & BOX:


The posted bulletin board on the site should contain at a minimum:
  • Job Safety and Health Sign
  • Labor Signs
  • Right to Know Law (HAZCOM)
  • Doctor & Emergency Phone Numbers
  • MSDS Location
  • Company notices and policies

An on-site job box should contain:
  • Written company safety program
  • Written Hazard Communication program
  • MSDS's
  • Power Tool Instructions
  • First Aid Kit
  • Extra Hard Hats, Safety Glasses, etc.

10 PROBLEMS TO AVOID:

The following were the top 10 most frequently cited standards by Federal OSHA in fiscal year 2014 (October 1, 2013 through September 30, 2014):
  1. Fall protection, construction (29 CFR 1926.501) [related OSHA Safety and Health Topics page]
  2. Hazard communication standard, general industry (29 CFR 1910.1200) [related OSHA Safety and Health Topics page]
  3. Scaffolding, general requirements, construction (29 CFR 1926.451) [related OSHA Safety and Health Topics page]
  4. Respiratory protection, general industry (29 CFR 1910.134) [related OSHA Safety and Health Topics page]
  5. Powered industrial trucks, general industry (29 CFR 1910.178) [related OSHA Safety and Health Topics page]
  6. Control of hazardous energy (lockout/tagout), general industry (29 CFR 1910.147) [related OSHA Safety and Health Topics page]
  7. Ladders, construction (29 CFR 1926.1053) [related OSHA Safety and Health Topics page]
  8. Electrical, wiring methods, components and equipment, general industry (29 CFR 1910.305) [related OSHA Safety and Health Topics page]
  9. Machinery and Machine Guarding, general requirements (29 CFR 1910.212) [related OSHA Safety and Health Topics page]
  10. Electrical systems design, general requirements, general industry (29 CFR 1910.303) [related OSHA Safety and Health Topics page]

FALL PREVENTION GUARDRAILS:

Residential stairways and balconies require temporary guardrails. These can be designed according to the OSHA website:
https://www.osha.gov/SLTC/etools/construction/falls/guardrail.html

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