Light order: [from book Working for Subs, available from Amazon.com]
A sample lighting order list appears in Appendix E that illustrates the various fixtures, bulbs (lamps,) and accessories you will require before your electrician arrives to final his work. These are items that the builder normally provides to the electrical contractor to install. The electrical roughin that was performed as described in Chapter 10 is followed at this time with the electrical final.When the time for the electrician to final his work arrives, the builder must have all light fixtures and bulbs on the premises and all appliances present. The electrical subcontractor will assemble and mount all fans and fixtures. He will install pigtails (equipment power cords and plugs) on the dishwasher, the range, oven, disposal, and microwave.
Other contractors specialize only in setting appliances in place for less money after the electrician does his work. The plumber will set the dishwasher and disposal as part of his contract. These plug into a receptacle installed by the electrician under the sink base cabinet. We used to set many of the appliances ourselves, since we had to be present on the job most of that day, it saved money, and it gave us something to do while waiting for subs and answering their questions. When it came to difficult appliance installations, like double ovens or downdraft rangetops we normally hired an outside installer, or let the electrician do it (more expensive.)
Microwave vent combination units that go above a stovetop are attached to the cabinets. We used to try to duct the exhaust to the outside through a roof cap with flashing. This is a better way to install one, however many builders were using the recirculating type with a charcoal filter, which meets code but is practically useless at removing cooking vapors, odors, and smoke. These recirculating ventilators will catch a small amount of grease on the thin filters, but most of the pollution escapes into the room. In order to compete we began using the same type of recirculating ventilated microwaves. It appeared that homebuyers were not concerned over which type was used, and the additional cost could be avoided. The best way to provide stovetop ventilation is to use a hood with a grease filter and a squirrel caged exhaust fan in the attic, ducted to the outside. This is expensive, but quite and may require opening a window for make-up air in a new tighter home due to being more efficient than a factory mounted hood exhaust.
You will save about half the cost of lighting by going to a large hardware store and buying the light fixtures yourself rather than calling the local lighting company to come out to do a take-off. Also, you will benefit from a more upscale appearance and better accuracy, since small suppliers tend to sell builders cheap looking fixtures at higher prices, and rarely provide what is desired. Shopping for your own lighting can be accomplished with a good list in about two or three hours. See Appendix E for a sample lighting order list. Often, when we hired a lighting supplier, the fixtures delivered were not what we had selected, some were missing and back ordered, they cost more, and the quality was deficient. Electricians usually complete a normal sized home’s final in one day. If they must return, it can be a hassle for you, and possibly an additional charge.
There can be many types of light bulbs used in your new home. Incandescent, fluorescent, the new energy saving compact fluorescent, LED's, and of many different shapes and types, including candelabra, small base, medium base, globe, frosted, clear, etc. You should consult a catalog and educate yourself well in advance of shopping to save effort and time. Compact fluorescent lamps (CFL’s) or LED lamps will cost a lot initially and have disposal and color rendition issues, but the environmental green movement may sway you to use them. CFL’s contain mercury, so should be recycled and not tossed into the trash. Most LED’s and some CFL’s may illuminate with a non-natural light closer to blue in the visible spectrum.
Appliances:
After cabinets have been installed and the electrical roughin has been accomplished, you can order appliances to be delivered. You will want much of the painting to have been completed as well as flooring if possible. The electrician will have to be called back to connect the pigtails and outlets behind most of this equipment.Y
our appliance order should be complete, including at least four items a dishwasher, disposal for the plumber to connect, an above-the-range microwave with vent, and a combination stove with an oven and a range. Some areas without public sewer taps may necessitate the use of a septic tank in which case a disposal may be ill advised. Your order should conform to the dimensions already given to the cabinet supplier, since the appliances must fit those. Over the stove is the best location for a microwave, since the width is usually the same, and this allows a built in exhaust fan. Counter top microwaves and built-ins elsewhere take up too much useful space. Some recommend under-the-counter, but stooping becomes laborious.
I
f your kitchen is more upscale you may have a rangetop with a separate vent hood and an independent exhaust fan. This usually entails a separate built-in double or single oven inserted into a cabinet in another spot. A trash compactor is a specialty item that most people seldom use, and they usually convert to a cabinet in the future. So, avoid this cost, unless you are one of the very few who likes them. You may have a downdraft (inefficient & ineffective ventilating) rangetop instead of one under a hood, so the exhaust duct will have to be connected under the cabinet by someone at this time. Since this book is concerned primarily with scheduling, subcontractor coordination, and costs, not design or functionality, appliance options are not discussed in great detail. There are kitchen consultants who make a living solely designing these rooms.
As mentioned, there are appliance installers who do nothing except set these items as their career. I usually installed my own and saved the $200 or $300, since I needed to be on the job anyway meeting subs. My electrician could place most for an extra fee, except I still had to connect the duct to any downdraft or microwave vented through the roof, if the HVAC sub had not been paid to do so. However, for elaborate or larger appliances I usually hired the specialist who could do it much more efficiently. Your appliance supplier can give the names of a few installers. The plumber, of course, must set the dishwasher and disposal once the electrician has connected their pigtails, plugs, and a receptacle.
One problem of concern after ordering appliances is theft, since these items are easily carried and expensive. Microwaves and disposals are most often taken. You will want the house to be lockable with all doors, windows, and locksets in at this time.
[continued in book Working for Subs]
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